Charlie Bigham makes posh food, sold in Booths. This has a large lattice puff pastry which covers the top of the pie and folds a good inch or so beyond the rim of the ramekin, so I can’t see what’s lurking within before putting it in the oven. Thirty minutes later it gets worse; as predicted the puff pastry is so tightly hugging the ramekin it is impossible to detach nor can you get a spatula in it due to the dimensions of the dish. I’ve got all my work cut out dislodging it and bunging it on the plate and then scooping out the admittedly fantastic gravy and chunks of steak floating around beneath. It ends up more of a stew or casserole with pastry on top than a pie though. Despite the crust disaster, I can’t fault the luxurious smell coming out the oven and the oceanic volume of gravy, with the steak playing the role of the meaty lifebuoys. It is sweeter than a creamcake with molasses, cocoa powder, sugar and Worcester sauce combining in the gravy. Can’t taste any ale though. Or anchovies (thankfully)