The amusingly named Winkles of Wolverhampton growler has a beautiful shape and splendidly soft texture. There’s no crunchiness here, to the delight of denture wearers and inside, there is a large ball of finely chopped sausage meat, flanked by a quarter inch of jelly on either side. I remove it from the fridge ten minutes before eating it and every mouthful sends me to heaven and back.